Dryer Runs But Won't Heat

A dryer that tumbles but doesn't heat is almost always a thermal fuse, heating element, or — most often — a clogged vent that's tripped the safety high-limit. This is the most fixable major-appliance problem and a fire safety issue worth catching.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1–2 hr Cost: $0–$50
Ad728×90 leaderboard — replace with AdSense unit code
🛠
Want help as you go? Open this guide in the interactive Fixly app — ask follow-up questions and get AI-powered tips for your specific situation.
Unplug the dryer firstBefore opening any panel, unplug the cord (or shut off the circuit breaker if hardwired). For gas dryers, also shut off the gas valve.
Clogged vents start firesLint-clogged dryer vents are a leading cause of household fires. A no-heat dryer is often the first warning sign that the vent is overdue.

Tools

Materials

As an Amazon Associate, Fixly earns a small commission on qualifying purchases — at no extra cost to you. It helps keep the guides free.
AdIn-content rectangle — replace with AdSense unit code
🔧
Over your head? Skip the headache. This one trips up first-timers. Get up to 3 vetted, local quotes — usually within a few hours.
Find a pro →

Steps

  1. 1

    Clean the entire vent run first

    Disconnect the dryer from the wall vent. Use a long brush to clean the vent from inside the house to the outside hood. Check the hood flap — should open freely; remove any nest or lint pack at the exit. This often fixes the issue alone because the thermal fuse trips when airflow is restricted.

  2. 2

    Reset and test

    Reconnect everything and test. If heat returns: you're done — schedule annual vent cleaning. If still no heat, the safety fuse may have already blown and needs replacing.

  3. 3

    Access the thermal fuse

    Unplug the dryer. Remove the back panel (or front, depending on brand). The thermal fuse is a small white or black plastic part mounted on the blower housing or heating element duct.

  4. 4

    Test the thermal fuse

    Set multimeter to continuity (or ohms). Touch probes to each terminal of the fuse. A good fuse reads near 0 ohms (beeps). No reading = blown. Replace.

  5. 5

    Test the heating element

    Locate the heating element (long coiled wire in a metal housing). Disconnect the two wires. Test continuity across the terminals — should read 10–50 ohms. Reading "OL" or infinity = broken element, replace.

  6. 6

    For gas dryers — check the igniter and coils

    A gas dryer that won't heat may have a bad igniter (glows orange briefly then goes out), bad gas valve coils, or bad flame sensor. Each is a cheap part and DIY replaceable. If unfamiliar with gas appliances, call a tech.

  7. 7

    After repair, schedule annual vent cleaning

    Clean the vent every year, or every 6 months for a long run. A dryer that runs hot but takes 2+ cycles to dry is also telling you the vent is overdue.

AdEnd-of-guide unit — replace with AdSense unit code